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George Cox Brothel Creepers 厚底鞋由來

Brothel Creepers廣泛用於第二次世界大戰時期,因氣候和環境的關係,北非沙漠軍人著用麂皮且具有耐磨底的靴子。戰爭結束後,軍人們在倫敦的聲色場所尋找慰藉,依舊穿著厚底靴,於是他們被稱為 “Brothel Creepers”(妓院的常客),招牌厚底鞋也就因此得名。

50年代末期,泰迪男孩穿著這些鞋子搭配窄管褲、夾克和波洛領帶,梳著貓王頭的髮型,並穿著絨布或天空藍的衣服。這種款式的鞋子於1949年由GEORGE COX開始製作銷售,因其特有的叛逆感,漸漸成為搖滾必備的單品之一。

70年代Brothel Creepers又再度回潮,在Malcolm McLaren率領英國PUNK的精神象徵"性手槍樂團SEX PISTOLS"和倫敦國王路上的商店"Let It Rock"的感召下,Brothel Creepers風靡歐美。

在這之後Brothel Creepers也成為許多其他地下文化的代表,例如:Ska、龐克、新浪潮New Wave、Psychobilly,Greasers、歌德和日本視覺系,並在成為80年代的香蕉女郎(Bananarama)的標志。2003年Osiris Shoes製做的Ali Boulala滑板鞋也是深受Brothel Creepers影響。到了2010年開始,各大時尚品牌又將Brothel Creepers帶回公眾視線,Prada、Alexandra wang、Vivienne Westwood等相繼推出Brothel Creepers,在街頭掀起一股厚底鞋的熱潮。

Creepers or brothel creepers are a type of shoe. They found their beginnings in the years following World War II, as soldiers based in the deserts in North Africa wore suede boots with hardwearing crepe soles because of the climate and environment. Having left the army, many of these ex-soldiers found their way to the nightspots of London wearing the same crepe-soled shoes and these became known as Brothel Creepers.

In the late 1950s, these shoes were taken up by the Teddy Boys along with drainpipe trousers, draped jackets, bolo ties, quiff and pompadour haircuts, and velvet or electric blue clothes. This style of shoe was developed in 1949 by George Cox and marketed under the Hamilton name, based on George Cox Jr.’s middle name.

The brothel creeper regained popularity in the early 1970s when Malcolm McLaren sold them from his Let it Rock shop in London’s Kings Road. Teddy Boys were the obvious customers, but the brothel creeper still proved to be popular among regular customers when McLaren and his partner Vivienne Westwood changed the shop to more rocker-oriented fashion.

The shoe has since been adopted by subcultures such as ska, punk, new wavers, psychobilly, greasers and goth, Japanese Visual Kei, and was noted as the footwear of choice of Bananarama.

The original George Cox creepers are hard to find, but British Boot Company has a large selection and is now the main agent in the United Kingdom for George Cox. Underground England shoes have been producing creepers since the 1980s, creating new designs along the way. In 2003 Osiris Shoes produced the Ali Boulala, a brothel creeper-influenced skateboarding shoe.

In Norway they are called "Traktorsko", literally "Tractor shoes", perhaps a parallel due to the thick sole being like the tall profile of a tractor wheel, but also because wearers of the Rocker/Teddy boy-style tended to be youth from rural areas.

(資料來源:維基百科)

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